Un libro metallico!!

Don't Come UnHinged! Transparent Wearable Journals

This is the second installment on Transparent Journals for the brave that want to make their own hinge. It's really fun to make hinges and is applicable a lot of different projects.

The first step to make a journal is to prepare your paper. It’s important to give it three days to cure before assembling the journal. See the How to Resin Paper Blog for details.
To make the metal book covers; first texture, stamp in any lettering and heat patina if desired. Anneal to soften the metal to make forming the hinges easier.
Draw the hinge pattern on the sheet metal. In class we use 1.5 x 3 inch pieces, if you are using something different you will need to adjust to your design. Leave ½” at the top then draw another line 1/2” down.


Draw out an “E”. Darken the cutting lines to keep from getting lost as you are cutting with your jeweler’s saw.

Cut along the lines with a jeweler’s saw. Turn the corners by sawing up and down in place and very gradually turning the saw.
File all the cut edges until smooth. Use a pair flat nose pliers to turn the legs of the “E” to a 90 degree angle. Do the same for the top piece too.


Using a pair of Bail Making Pliers. I just put them on sale for you...I can do that! These are the easiest because the jaws are even, not tapered. You can use a pair of long round nose pliers and adjust for the taper as you work. Roll the tabs toward the back centering on the sheet.

Make sure the hinges line up evenly centered over the sheet metal.


File and “futz” the hinge with a pair of chain nose pliers until you can line it all up evenly to put the tubing through. At this point I use the whole tube as it's easier to handle.


Now the tubing is in the hinge, cut it off with a jeweler's saw so it protrudes on each end about the width of a 16 gauge wire. Create a tube rivet by spreading the end of the tube with a center punch...

then finishing with the ball peen end of a hammer by stroking lightly around the outside edge and flaring the edge enough to hold the hinge together.

Drill a 1/8” hole on both sides of the top of the hinge on the front only (they are shown above)
If you want to add fringe to the back do it now. Drill a hole or multiple holes to use for jump rings to hold the fringe. See last weeks blog for details.
Next create your pages by using the pre-resined paper you have previously created and tear the sheets to fit or nearly fit--however you like them. Use the back cover as a tearing edge.

If you want to add color or burn the edges of the pages to age them do this now. Create a stack of pages, then drill front to back through the whole stack. This will go through the previously drilled holes as a marker, through the papers and the metal back of the journal.


Slip a long 1/8” eyelet front to back through to hold it all together. Holding tightly, flip the whole "sandwich" over. Using the same technique as above make a tube rivet out of the eyelet.

Rivettare!!

Wire Riveting on a Curve!

Wire rivets are a great way to attach two pieces of metal. Wire rivets can be used in small tight spaces and also can be made to disappear into the surface if needed. Working with a small curved surface can be difficult and a wire rivet works perfectly with a few tricks!


The first step is to dap a round disk, see Why Dap? blog for details and how to.


After dapping, use a center punch and mark where you want to drill. Always drill after the dapping if you are doing a rivet as dapping can distort the hole. An accurate tight fit is essential for scucessful riveting. Use a size 52 drill bit if using a jewler's drill or a 1/16th inch if using one from the hardware store. These will match a 16 gauge piece of wire. Use 16 Gauge Sterling wire as it's softer and easier for the beginner.

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When drilling, always hold the metal with a pair of pliers to keep it from spinning and slicing your fingers! After you do it a few times you will remember. Tip: In an emergency duct tape will hold a sliced finger together, though students usually are not amused...

Set your disk on the metal you are rivetig it to and make a mark with a fine sharpie.

Lightly tap the mark with a center punch so your drill doesn't "skitter" when you drill it. Use the same size 52 drill bit and drill straight in. An angle can make the rivet hard to set...


Prepare the wire rivet by snipping the end of the 16 gauge wire with a pair of Flush Cutters with the flat side toward the wire. Check how flat the cut is, that will make it must easier to work on.

Grab the end of the wire with a Flat Nose Plier leaving a tiny amount sticking above and cut flush against the plier. The amount sticking up should be a bit more than the width of the fine sharpie point.


Don't use a pair of "princess" pliers as the riveting could damage them. Use a Bench Block and a the ball peen end of a Chasing Hammer. Lay the flat nose plier on the bench block and hold the wire striaght upright. Tap the end with the ball peen end kind of stroking the wire outward from it's center to help it spread. When it starts to look like a nail head then you are ready to complete the rivet. Most jeweler's use a vise to hold the wire but I always had "issues" with it and finally resolved it with my flat nose plier method.

Insert the wire rivet through the concave side of the dapped disk then through the flat back piece. Use a dapping punch that is smaller than the dapped disk set the assembly on it. The purpose is to have "metal to metal" which is necessary to rivet. This might take a bit of practice to keep the rivet against the curve so it doesn't fall out. The other option is to use the ball peen end of a hammer instead of a dapping punch. Either one can be held in a vice to keep them secure.

Trim the raw end of the wire rivet with the flush end of the pliers. If you leave too much the rivet will buckle and too little won't allow you enough metal to form a proper rivet. Again, use the width of a fine sharpie marker. This photo is a little too much wire as it was tight to photo and show the layers.

The scale is better in this photo and shows the amount that should be left sticking up for a good rivet. Tap out with the ball peen end of the hammer and again stroke so the wire spreads and holds the rivet.

Make sure the back of the rivet is securly butted up against the metal of the form.

After you have made the wire spread on this side, flip it over and use the same dapping punch to spread the top side and flip back and forth until the piece is very tight and secure.

Try this method and send me a photo of what you created with it! Riveting can really free up your creative process and allow you to assemble a lot of interesting pieces. There will be an Objects and Elements prize for the best idea picked by the staff.

Idea VIntage!! ( trasferimento immagine)

To make the transfer, use gloves and cut a small slice of the roll of the resin clay.

Leave the gloves on and mix it together quickly with your fingers. Make sure it's fully mixed as it is a two part epoxy resin product.
Use the tube it comes in and roll it out on a non-stick craft sheet or a piece of heavy black garbage bag.

My favorite part is that I took a photo copy that I already had and used it for my transfer. No special paper or solutions. I just cut it out to shape and laid it face down on the wet clay and smoothed it in.

I waited for 24 hours to be sure it was cured, but plan to try it in a shorter time period next time. Wet the back of the paper and then just rub it off, it comes off very very easily.

trim to the size you like...rolled out thin plain scissors work.

File the edges and chip and mark them up to make the piece look more "found".

Coat the whole thing with dark brown acrylic paint and rub it off with a rag.

Use a little bit of sand paper and scuffed it and then use a little more paint to cover up the white, just work it until it looks old and worn.

Another option is to just attach to a metal book cover. The dry clay is now a piece of "plastic" so it's easy to drill and manipulate. You can drill it and make a faux rivet or use a nut and screw. If you are interested in this journal you can find the whole project in the next issue of Handcrafted Jewelry one of my favorite magazines.


The lovely images you see above were given to me by Helga at Art Chix Studio...I have LONG admired her work and was so delighted to have her in my class at the Bead and Button show. We will be carrying some of her beautiful images very very soon!