sabato 23 giugno 2012
Orecchini Vintage! (Wire)
Rustic Bronze Hoop Earrings--the Options are Endless!
Look at the rustic handmade look of these hoops and they are so easy to make! The cost of materials is less than $2 and the time less than an hour--what a nice gift they would be.
These are made from 12 Gauge Bronze Wire and 22 Gauge Sterling wire. The size of the hoop will determine how much bronze wire to cut. Wrap the wire around something about the right size and cut. When making hoops its good to make several pair at a time so they match in case you lose one! And its more efficient to do several pair at this point.
Hammer both ends of the heavy wire so you can punch a hole on each side. Bend one end up to "catch" the end of the ear hoop.
Drilling a hole in wire can be tough, Hole Punch Pliers make it easier to control the hole placement.
Using the ball peen end of a Chasing Hammer on a Bench Block; hammer out the hoop. This is a great place to add additional texture or even change the planes of the flattened areas.
Cut a piece of the 22 Gauge Sterling wire about 2" or 5 centimeters. Make a loop in one end and bend back with your thumbnail. See photo below for how it should look.
Use your fingers to make a large bend in it and pliers to bend up the end.
Attach through the hole and adjust to fit, then tap the ear wire repeatedly on your block with your chasing hammer to "work harden" the wire. Usually about 20 times. This is "tapping" and shouldn't flatten the wire.
Use a Wire Rounder to smooth the end of the ear wire. This prevents scratching when you put them on.
Viola! You have a very cool pair of hoops. Now the sky is the limit...add your own look and flair to them. Beads or stones can easily be added and wrapped as a quick way to add some color...Take a stone and a head pin and do a quick wrap and add to the bottom of the hoop.
Leave a comment and you will be entered in the drawing to give away three of The Overflowing Stash packets!
These are made from 12 Gauge Bronze Wire and 22 Gauge Sterling wire. The size of the hoop will determine how much bronze wire to cut. Wrap the wire around something about the right size and cut. When making hoops its good to make several pair at a time so they match in case you lose one! And its more efficient to do several pair at this point.
Hammer both ends of the heavy wire so you can punch a hole on each side. Bend one end up to "catch" the end of the ear hoop.
Drilling a hole in wire can be tough, Hole Punch Pliers make it easier to control the hole placement.
Using the ball peen end of a Chasing Hammer on a Bench Block; hammer out the hoop. This is a great place to add additional texture or even change the planes of the flattened areas.
Cut a piece of the 22 Gauge Sterling wire about 2" or 5 centimeters. Make a loop in one end and bend back with your thumbnail. See photo below for how it should look.
Use your fingers to make a large bend in it and pliers to bend up the end.
Attach through the hole and adjust to fit, then tap the ear wire repeatedly on your block with your chasing hammer to "work harden" the wire. Usually about 20 times. This is "tapping" and shouldn't flatten the wire.
Use a Wire Rounder to smooth the end of the ear wire. This prevents scratching when you put them on.
Viola! You have a very cool pair of hoops. Now the sky is the limit...add your own look and flair to them. Beads or stones can easily be added and wrapped as a quick way to add some color...Take a stone and a head pin and do a quick wrap and add to the bottom of the hoop.
Leave a comment and you will be entered in the drawing to give away three of The Overflowing Stash packets!
Vorrei un Anello..Graffiante!! ( METAL)
Are you Wonder Woman for the Holidays?
This cuff is so easy you'll want to make several. It's very bold and makes a strong statement and has a bit of that Wonder Woman vibe that we all need this time of year!!
You will need a 6x6 piece of 22 gauge bronze sheet or any other metal you want to work with. This is a pretty fluid piece so whatever you have you can make it work. It will help immensely to have an oval bracelet mandrel but you can find something that has the shape you need and make it work too. Buying a tool like that is only worth it if you are going to use over and over. I love shaping metal so anything that works for that I have to have--tool hog! There are lots of things like cans and bottles that you can use to shape a onetime project. My most frequently used mandrel is a chubby sharpie pen..
Cut out a piece of the sheet in the scale that you want. Make both sides tapered. I use shears as it's faster for me--coming from fibers field I love my scissors. If you cut with shears you have to do more filing than if you use a jeweler's saw. You need to figure out which you prefer. I have a jeweler's wheel with a soft sanding type of wheel so I don't do a lot of filing.
Texture the piece with either texture hammers or putting items on and hammering on them to create your own texture. Anything that will make it look like ancient metal--or try it shiny.
After you texture you will have a very work hardened piece so be sure to anneal it. When you quench it you probably won't like the color because of the high heat.
Next drill 1/8th inch holes in the narrow end for the wires....as many or few as you like! Don't forget to mark your place with a center punch so your drill bit doesn't skitter...
Before shaping I polish it up to shiny with either sandpaper and steel wool or a polishing wheel, then carefully heat until I get the lovely chocolate color. Warm it, pull the heat away and give it a moment to develop and then warm again if needed.
Using a mandrel or something that you have found that creates the curve shape the large metal piece. Hammer lightly to work harden it into place.
Cut 8 - 10 inch pieces of 12 gauge wire, if you have scaled down this piece use 14 gauge. Hammer out to flatten, but don't flare the ends as you have to thread through the holes first, then flare the ends. Texture if you like. Heat through to anneal and follow the steps above to get the color patina.
Thread the wires through your holes and randomly fold in half so the ends are uneven. This is where you flare the ends a bit and polish so they don't scratch.
Shape and hammer the whole piece until it fits your arm perfectly and the wires lay nicely. Make sure you work harden it well so the wires stay as you have shaped them. Note that I'm just using a hardware store hammer here. It's heavier than my jeweler's ball peen and work for this heavy gauge and for when I work with steel.
The Overflowing Stash is still growing and getting better every day....leave a comment to enter the drawing...
Un libro metallico!!
Don't Come UnHinged! Transparent Wearable Journals
This is the second installment on Transparent Journals for the brave that want to make their own hinge. It's really fun to make hinges and is applicable a lot of different projects.
The first step to make a journal is to prepare your paper. It’s important to give it three days to cure before assembling the journal. See the How to Resin Paper Blog for details.
To make the metal book covers; first texture, stamp in any lettering and heat patina if desired. Anneal to soften the metal to make forming the hinges easier.
Draw the hinge pattern on the sheet metal. In class we use 1.5 x 3 inch pieces, if you are using something different you will need to adjust to your design. Leave ½” at the top then draw another line 1/2” down.
Draw out an “E”. Darken the cutting lines to keep from getting lost as you are cutting with your jeweler’s saw.
Cut along the lines with a jeweler’s saw. Turn the corners by sawing up and down in place and very gradually turning the saw.
File all the cut edges until smooth. Use a pair flat nose pliers to turn the legs of the “E” to a 90 degree angle. Do the same for the top piece too.
Using a pair of Bail Making Pliers. I just put them on sale for you...I can do that! These are the easiest because the jaws are even, not tapered. You can use a pair of long round nose pliers and adjust for the taper as you work. Roll the tabs toward the back centering on the sheet.
Make sure the hinges line up evenly centered over the sheet metal.
File and “futz” the hinge with a pair of chain nose pliers until you can line it all up evenly to put the tubing through. At this point I use the whole tube as it's easier to handle.
Now the tubing is in the hinge, cut it off with a jeweler's saw so it protrudes on each end about the width of a 16 gauge wire. Create a tube rivet by spreading the end of the tube with a center punch...
then finishing with the ball peen end of a hammer by stroking lightly around the outside edge and flaring the edge enough to hold the hinge together.
Drill a 1/8” hole on both sides of the top of the hinge on the front only (they are shown above)
If you want to add fringe to the back do it now. Drill a hole or multiple holes to use for jump rings to hold the fringe. See last weeks blog for details.
Next create your pages by using the pre-resined paper you have previously created and tear the sheets to fit or nearly fit--however you like them. Use the back cover as a tearing edge.
If you want to add color or burn the edges of the pages to age them do this now. Create a stack of pages, then drill front to back through the whole stack. This will go through the previously drilled holes as a marker, through the papers and the metal back of the journal.
Slip a long 1/8” eyelet front to back through to hold it all together. Holding tightly, flip the whole "sandwich" over. Using the same technique as above make a tube rivet out of the eyelet.
The first step to make a journal is to prepare your paper. It’s important to give it three days to cure before assembling the journal. See the How to Resin Paper Blog for details.
To make the metal book covers; first texture, stamp in any lettering and heat patina if desired. Anneal to soften the metal to make forming the hinges easier.
Draw the hinge pattern on the sheet metal. In class we use 1.5 x 3 inch pieces, if you are using something different you will need to adjust to your design. Leave ½” at the top then draw another line 1/2” down.
Draw out an “E”. Darken the cutting lines to keep from getting lost as you are cutting with your jeweler’s saw.
Cut along the lines with a jeweler’s saw. Turn the corners by sawing up and down in place and very gradually turning the saw.
File all the cut edges until smooth. Use a pair flat nose pliers to turn the legs of the “E” to a 90 degree angle. Do the same for the top piece too.
Using a pair of Bail Making Pliers. I just put them on sale for you...I can do that! These are the easiest because the jaws are even, not tapered. You can use a pair of long round nose pliers and adjust for the taper as you work. Roll the tabs toward the back centering on the sheet.
Make sure the hinges line up evenly centered over the sheet metal.
File and “futz” the hinge with a pair of chain nose pliers until you can line it all up evenly to put the tubing through. At this point I use the whole tube as it's easier to handle.
Now the tubing is in the hinge, cut it off with a jeweler's saw so it protrudes on each end about the width of a 16 gauge wire. Create a tube rivet by spreading the end of the tube with a center punch...
then finishing with the ball peen end of a hammer by stroking lightly around the outside edge and flaring the edge enough to hold the hinge together.
Drill a 1/8” hole on both sides of the top of the hinge on the front only (they are shown above)
If you want to add fringe to the back do it now. Drill a hole or multiple holes to use for jump rings to hold the fringe. See last weeks blog for details.
Next create your pages by using the pre-resined paper you have previously created and tear the sheets to fit or nearly fit--however you like them. Use the back cover as a tearing edge.
If you want to add color or burn the edges of the pages to age them do this now. Create a stack of pages, then drill front to back through the whole stack. This will go through the previously drilled holes as a marker, through the papers and the metal back of the journal.
Slip a long 1/8” eyelet front to back through to hold it all together. Holding tightly, flip the whole "sandwich" over. Using the same technique as above make a tube rivet out of the eyelet.
Rivettare!!
Wire Riveting on a Curve!
Wire rivets are a great way to attach two pieces of metal. Wire rivets can be used in small tight spaces and also can be made to disappear into the surface if needed. Working with a small curved surface can be difficult and a wire rivet works perfectly with a few tricks!
The first step is to dap a round disk, see Why Dap? blog for details and how to.
After dapping, use a center punch and mark where you want to drill. Always drill after the dapping if you are doing a rivet as dapping can distort the hole. An accurate tight fit is essential for scucessful riveting. Use a size 52 drill bit if using a jewler's drill or a 1/16th inch if using one from the hardware store. These will match a 16 gauge piece of wire. Use 16 Gauge Sterling wire as it's softer and easier for the beginner.
!
When drilling, always hold the metal with a pair of pliers to keep it from spinning and slicing your fingers! After you do it a few times you will remember. Tip: In an emergency duct tape will hold a sliced finger together, though students usually are not amused...
Set your disk on the metal you are rivetig it to and make a mark with a fine sharpie.
Lightly tap the mark with a center punch so your drill doesn't "skitter" when you drill it. Use the same size 52 drill bit and drill straight in. An angle can make the rivet hard to set...
Prepare the wire rivet by snipping the end of the 16 gauge wire with a pair of Flush Cutters with the flat side toward the wire. Check how flat the cut is, that will make it must easier to work on.
Grab the end of the wire with a Flat Nose Plier leaving a tiny amount sticking above and cut flush against the plier. The amount sticking up should be a bit more than the width of the fine sharpie point.
Don't use a pair of "princess" pliers as the riveting could damage them. Use a Bench Block and a the ball peen end of a Chasing Hammer. Lay the flat nose plier on the bench block and hold the wire striaght upright. Tap the end with the ball peen end kind of stroking the wire outward from it's center to help it spread. When it starts to look like a nail head then you are ready to complete the rivet. Most jeweler's use a vise to hold the wire but I always had "issues" with it and finally resolved it with my flat nose plier method.
Insert the wire rivet through the concave side of the dapped disk then through the flat back piece. Use a dapping punch that is smaller than the dapped disk set the assembly on it. The purpose is to have "metal to metal" which is necessary to rivet. This might take a bit of practice to keep the rivet against the curve so it doesn't fall out. The other option is to use the ball peen end of a hammer instead of a dapping punch. Either one can be held in a vice to keep them secure.
Trim the raw end of the wire rivet with the flush end of the pliers. If you leave too much the rivet will buckle and too little won't allow you enough metal to form a proper rivet. Again, use the width of a fine sharpie marker. This photo is a little too much wire as it was tight to photo and show the layers.
The scale is better in this photo and shows the amount that should be left sticking up for a good rivet. Tap out with the ball peen end of the hammer and again stroke so the wire spreads and holds the rivet.
Make sure the back of the rivet is securly butted up against the metal of the form.
After you have made the wire spread on this side, flip it over and use the same dapping punch to spread the top side and flip back and forth until the piece is very tight and secure.
Try this method and send me a photo of what you created with it! Riveting can really free up your creative process and allow you to assemble a lot of interesting pieces. There will be an Objects and Elements prize for the best idea picked by the staff.
The first step is to dap a round disk, see Why Dap? blog for details and how to.
After dapping, use a center punch and mark where you want to drill. Always drill after the dapping if you are doing a rivet as dapping can distort the hole. An accurate tight fit is essential for scucessful riveting. Use a size 52 drill bit if using a jewler's drill or a 1/16th inch if using one from the hardware store. These will match a 16 gauge piece of wire. Use 16 Gauge Sterling wire as it's softer and easier for the beginner.
!
When drilling, always hold the metal with a pair of pliers to keep it from spinning and slicing your fingers! After you do it a few times you will remember. Tip: In an emergency duct tape will hold a sliced finger together, though students usually are not amused...
Set your disk on the metal you are rivetig it to and make a mark with a fine sharpie.
Lightly tap the mark with a center punch so your drill doesn't "skitter" when you drill it. Use the same size 52 drill bit and drill straight in. An angle can make the rivet hard to set...
Prepare the wire rivet by snipping the end of the 16 gauge wire with a pair of Flush Cutters with the flat side toward the wire. Check how flat the cut is, that will make it must easier to work on.
Grab the end of the wire with a Flat Nose Plier leaving a tiny amount sticking above and cut flush against the plier. The amount sticking up should be a bit more than the width of the fine sharpie point.
Don't use a pair of "princess" pliers as the riveting could damage them. Use a Bench Block and a the ball peen end of a Chasing Hammer. Lay the flat nose plier on the bench block and hold the wire striaght upright. Tap the end with the ball peen end kind of stroking the wire outward from it's center to help it spread. When it starts to look like a nail head then you are ready to complete the rivet. Most jeweler's use a vise to hold the wire but I always had "issues" with it and finally resolved it with my flat nose plier method.
Insert the wire rivet through the concave side of the dapped disk then through the flat back piece. Use a dapping punch that is smaller than the dapped disk set the assembly on it. The purpose is to have "metal to metal" which is necessary to rivet. This might take a bit of practice to keep the rivet against the curve so it doesn't fall out. The other option is to use the ball peen end of a hammer instead of a dapping punch. Either one can be held in a vice to keep them secure.
Trim the raw end of the wire rivet with the flush end of the pliers. If you leave too much the rivet will buckle and too little won't allow you enough metal to form a proper rivet. Again, use the width of a fine sharpie marker. This photo is a little too much wire as it was tight to photo and show the layers.
The scale is better in this photo and shows the amount that should be left sticking up for a good rivet. Tap out with the ball peen end of the hammer and again stroke so the wire spreads and holds the rivet.
Make sure the back of the rivet is securly butted up against the metal of the form.
After you have made the wire spread on this side, flip it over and use the same dapping punch to spread the top side and flip back and forth until the piece is very tight and secure.
Try this method and send me a photo of what you created with it! Riveting can really free up your creative process and allow you to assemble a lot of interesting pieces. There will be an Objects and Elements prize for the best idea picked by the staff.
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